Makeup tips from artists

This interview with television makeup artist Colin Pollard, in a magazine article, looked at applying make-up effectively and some top tips:

1. FOUNDATION:

"What is the best way to apply it - for example, do you start at the nose and work outwards, start at the outer edge of the cheeks and work inwards?

Apply dots of foundation over the forehead and down the nose then blend these onto the skin. Next apply dots onto each cheek and across the chin then blend the two halves of the face together. Gently pat a little more foundation under the eye area and blend with a sponge wedge . ALWAYS FINISH BLENDING WITH DOWNWARD STROKES IN THE DIRECTION OF FACIAL HAIR. This will avoid balling and clogging and make the foundation look more natural.

"Do you need to apply foundation all over the face or just the areas where skin tone or imperfections need to be disguised?"

Provided that the foundation tone matches perfectly to the rest of the rest of the face then NO ..A better finish and a more even complexion would be achieved by using a light textured concealer with foundation over the top.

"What is the best way to get foundation to last and, if you need powder for a lasting finish, how can you avoid a matte 'mask-like' result?"

Cream to powder foundations last longer than cream formulas. Most powders today are finer than they were a few years ago and are almost invisible. Use a powder with a gentle light reflecting quality to avoid that 'pancake' look. To avoid an over powdered look sweep a large clean powder brush over the face in downward strokes to remove any excess.

2. BLUSHER/BRONZER:

"Where should blusher be applied, to the apple of the cheek, in the hollow?"

The best way to position blusher is to smile in front of a mirror and apple gentle colour to the resulting 'apples.

"It's easy to overdo things with bronzers, so what is the best way to use them for a more natural look?"

Bronzing powders when used effectively are one of the most versatile make up products. As with all make up you must have the right tools to achieve perfect results. A large powder brush, a smaller blusher brush and an eye shadow brush

To achieve an all over healthy glow use the large brush with a very small amount of powder dispersed through it and dust this evenly all over the face . Don't forget the ears.

Apply a little more colour to the cheeks and temples and if preferred use the same bronzing powder as an eye shadow or simply to deepen and define the socket line.

"Should your face shape dictate where the blusher/bronzer is applied?"

Clever use of a bronzing powder can help to accentuate and define features. Gentle shading can be applied to certain areas to add emphasis and highlights can be created by using less colour on some areas like cheekbones.

3. EYES:

"How do you stop eye shadow from creasing?"

The reason eye shadows crease is generally down to excess oils and perspiration around the eyelid area diluting the colour and channelling it into the eye socket or fine lines and folds.

Ensure that the eye area is free of excess moisturiser and is reasonably dry before applying the eye shadow. If prone to oily skin and or perspiration a fine layer of translucent works well as a base or even a light covering eye shadow base with a light reflecting pigment will help to prevent creasing.

Cream to powder formulations tends to be more crease resistant than basic powders.

Smoking and being in very hot atmospheres encourages oils to the surface of the eye area. If you really want to improve your make up stability change your lifestyle

"Should older people avoid powder shadows?"

No. But softer and lighter colours are recommended

"What's the best way to use mascara to lengthen and thicken lashes without clumping or flaking?"

The secret is in the brush and you may have to try a few before you find the one that suits you the best.

To get perfect application of a mascara use a small mirror and hold it up above the nose about level with the forehead and look up into it. This will make the lower lashes stand out more and make them easy to apply mascara to and avoid blobbing the lower lash line. Then lower the mirror and look down into it to get at the top lash line.

"Tips on using eyeliner if you haven't got a steady hand or you end up with an uneven result?"

Avoid using the old 'brush on a stick' liners as these are difficult to control.
There are fabulous new 'inkwell' type pots now available with very fine applicators in them. These allow you to rest your hand on your cheek and still get at the eye area with steady precision.

4. LIPS:

"Lip gloss has been big news for a while, but it needs to be reapplied frequently, how can you make it last longer?"

The flippant answer would be to avoid, eating, drinking, smoking and snogging. Lip-gloss can be made to stay on a little longer by applying an visible layer of translucent powder onto the lips before applying the gloss

"How can you stop lipstick from bleeding?"

The perfect way to avoid lipstick bleeding is to apply a light coat of powder to the lips then one coat of lipstick. Blot this with a tissue then apply another layer of powder and a final coat of lip colour. Use a neutral shade of lip liner. Less glossy lip colours

"How do you make thin lips look fuller or uneven lips look balanced?"

To make thin lips look fuller use a natural skin tone colour like a soft brown or browny pink lip liner and line the lips on the outer edge of the natural lip line . Do not use dark lip colours as this will only make the lips look even thinner. Use a medium shade to cover the whole lip area and then create a luscious pout by using a lighter shade in the centre of the top and bottom lip.

To balance lips use a lip liner to get to the correct shape then fill in with lip colour. For best results make sure your foundation is applied evenly all over the lips and surrounding area Begin by creating a cupids bow at the centre of the top lip and then a gentle curve on the centre of the lower lip line then work from the centre of the lips outwards compensating where
you need to. Use the lip line shape to fill in with lipstick.

"If you use a lipliner, which shade should you choose?"

Match the colour as closely as possible to your lip colour or use a neutral soft pinky brown which works with any lip colour. Avoid deep contrasts as this looks totally false

5. PREDICTIONS:

"What are the hot colours and looks for this summer/autumn?"

50's are back with a vengeance with a modern twist. That means liquid eyeliner and strong lip colours a la Audrey Hepburn. Hot colours for summer are shimmering golds . pinks and blues for eyes and warm pinks and corals for lips and nails

"And finally, if you could only have three items in your make-up bag, what would they be - and why?"

A bronzing powder, a mascara, and a lipstick (from Ultra Glow) .You can create an entire make up with just these three items